tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-49066056675807245112024-03-05T03:35:33.982-06:00Prairie Energy Solutions: Insulation & Home Performance ContractorInsulation & Home Performance Diagnostics For Southern Illinois Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger25125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-23084790434026843752014-06-10T11:27:00.001-05:002014-06-10T11:31:53.305-05:00Summer 2014: Hot Mess?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEHW0M7D8cgz-J4OQ4Q2DS1DwHuq2GUqCArTQVSOK9nWgOgj7uquOQGvBgoXYRzDOxY3eiWwPEQYOy7ciIHipM1nVsDtSlDgL4AUpXa3iWXH7REizanxa-X4Vr2aLIr2jNjOIrFgYctM/s1600/2014-USFA-Summer-Map-300x200+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEHW0M7D8cgz-J4OQ4Q2DS1DwHuq2GUqCArTQVSOK9nWgOgj7uquOQGvBgoXYRzDOxY3eiWwPEQYOy7ciIHipM1nVsDtSlDgL4AUpXa3iWXH7REizanxa-X4Vr2aLIr2jNjOIrFgYctM/s1600/2014-USFA-Summer-Map-300x200+(1).jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remember last fall when <a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/capital-weather-gang/wp/2013/08/26/the-farmers-almanac-outrageous-forecast-a-stormy-super-bowl-and-frigid-snowy-winter/" target="_blank">people scoffed at the Farmer’s Almanac prediction</a> of a Super Bowl Snowpocalypse and a bitterly cold and overly wet
winter? Turns out the Super Bowl prediction
was wrong, though it was probably done just to get people’s attention. The other half of the prediction? I’d say they stuck that landing, <a href="http://brownfieldagnews.com/2014/03/07/winter-4th-coldest-record-illinois/" target="_blank">as we experienced the 4th-coldest winter on record</a>.</div>
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Now, the Almanackers (new word) are at it again. And if they’re right, then this summer is
going to be a hot mess.<br />
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They’re predicting national average temperatures to be about
3 degrees above normal, and for my part of the country to experience conditions
described as “oppressively humid, wet, and thundery” (new word). Sounds like fun. </div>
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Here’s another version of the map above :<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-th-z0m9QhrXHTZocnyDyMXb2wTtZRaFdGD6nM51NaIJyg5DJGRtEyl6yxXtd45A9uskuD4oUbTnM-EZKxSuOEjrujQmS1ADWqr9zq7-MT6PWKEhH7wQJiTZNTC2VEWLIaXw5ReMetoY/s1600/farmers+almanac+summer+14.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-th-z0m9QhrXHTZocnyDyMXb2wTtZRaFdGD6nM51NaIJyg5DJGRtEyl6yxXtd45A9uskuD4oUbTnM-EZKxSuOEjrujQmS1ADWqr9zq7-MT6PWKEhH7wQJiTZNTC2VEWLIaXw5ReMetoY/s1600/farmers+almanac+summer+14.png" height="240" width="400" /></a></div>
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It may not surprise you that the reason I'm sharing this
information with you is that we install insulation in homes, as well as sealing air leaks that are bleeding the home of its cool air. Insulation is your air conditioner’s #1 best
friend forever. Insulation brought to current standards is
just the ticket for beating “oppressive” conditions, it will extend the life of
your air conditioner since the a/c won’t run as often or as hard, and it saves
you money every month on your utility bills.
Win-win-win scenario. And while insulation
can’t stop the thundery part, cellulose insulation is absolutely the best
material for soundproofing your home. </div>
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P.S. <a href="http://www.prairieenergysolutions.com/p/solar-screens.html" target="_blank">Solar Screens</a>
rock in the summer months, too. (And, yes,
that is a link to our website and one more thinly-veiled sales pitch for another of our products that offers tremendous value to the homeowner.) <o:p></o:p></div>
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jc</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-30813014015494135882014-02-05T09:59:00.000-06:002014-02-05T10:07:57.380-06:00The Most Important Fuel In The World, Pt. II: "Stay thrifty, my friends"<div style="text-align: center;">
<img src="http://atsiteinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/nrdc-logo2.jpg" height="175" width="200" /></div>
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Lots of smart people are coming to the same conclusions about the <a href="http://prairieenergysolutions.com/2013/11/the-most-important-fuel-in-world.html" target="_blank">non-fuel</a> behind America’s hey-look-suddenly-we-make-and-own-all-the-fuel-in-the-world energy boom: it’s energy efficiency. Now, The National Resource Defense Council has issued <a href="http://www.nrdc.org/media/2013/131008.asp" target="_blank">their first annual report on energy</a> by concluding that the United States’ energy efficiency push “has more than doubled its economic productivity from oil, natural gas, and electricity over the past 40 years, which means energy efficiency has contributed more to meeting America’s needs than all other resources combined.” Mull on that a bit. <br />
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More from the <a href="http://www.nrdc.org/energy/energy-environment-report/files/energy-environment-report-2013.pdf" target="_blank">NRDC report</a>:<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
--“Additional investments in efficiency could cut U.S. energy consumption by 23 percent by 2020, save customers nearly $700 billion, and create up to 900,000 direct jobs (plus countless more when consumers spend their savings elsewhere).”<br />
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--“Because increasing efficiency is far less costly than adding other energy resources like fossil fuels, this is saving the nation hundreds of billions of dollars annually, helping U.S. workers and companies<br />
compete worldwide, and making our country more energy-secure.<br />
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--Total energy used per dollar of goods produced is down.<br />
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--Gasoline per mile driven is down.<br />
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--The cost of energy services (from lighting to refrigeration) is down.<br />
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The report states that “energy efficiency is America’s most productive energy resource” and that for<br />
continued efficiency success, best options include “upgrading homes and other buildings with energysaving<br />
appliances and products such as light bulbs and insulation.”<br />
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More evidence that the cleanest <u>and</u> cheapest energy<i> is the energy we don’t use</i>.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-70291041977762224352013-11-18T09:45:00.000-06:002013-12-13T12:29:08.558-06:00The Most Important Fuel In The World<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEio1WJfkLiLNse6JamA4ZLSMzIY1bkf0nvtvD_h7c9lM_znWAcSEmYSukB8Wzt4zAKihQcbMM7B0JvsrokQytqQRgW1smjIbh0pjyXCxbxzmT58y6ISJNbBjhQcte_ICvCF63iu_GW4/s1600/IEA+badge+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEio1WJfkLiLNse6JamA4ZLSMzIY1bkf0nvtvD_h7c9lM_znWAcSEmYSukB8Wzt4zAKihQcbMM7B0JvsrokQytqQRgW1smjIbh0pjyXCxbxzmT58y6ISJNbBjhQcte_ICvCF63iu_GW4/s320/IEA+badge+3.jpg" height="217" width="320" /></a></div>
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The <a href="http://www.iea.org/" target="_blank">International Energy Agency (IEA)</a> is <u>the</u> global
authority on worldwide fuel supplies, trends, and outlooks. They have the ear of the world’s governments
and business, and they help set policy by conducting the research necessary to
define global fuel inventories and costs.
So when they release <a href="http://www.iea.org/newsroomandevents/pressreleases/2013/october/name,43788,en.html" target="_blank">a first-of-its-kind report that pinpoints theworld’s most important fuel</a>, it’s kind of a big deal. </div>
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Here’s a list of the fuels that will not wear the crown of
“Most Important Fuel in the World”: oil, biodiesel, nuclear, wind, hydro, geothermal,
solar, wave energy, biomass, hydrogen, ethanol, coal. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Wait, it’s not a renewable like wind or solar? And it’s not ‘clean coal’? Okay.
The US is sitting on enough natural gas to power the world for a hundred
years so that’s gotta be it, right? Nope. It’s not even natural gas, the USA’s game-changing energy trump card. In fact, the IEA says the most important fuel
in the world <i>isn’t a fuel at all</i>. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The most important fuel in the world…is energy efficiency.</div>
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Here are the guts of the IEA’s report:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 12pt;">From 2005 to
2010, efficiency measures <u>saved the energy equivalent of USD 420 billion worth
of oil</u> in a group of 11 IEA member countries.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Had it not been
for energy efficiency measures implemented in past years, consumers in those 11
IEA member countries would now be consuming – and thus paying for – <u>about
two-thirds more energy than they currently use</u>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 12pt;">In 2010 in
those countries, <u>the energy savings from efficiency measures exceeded the
output from any other single fuel source.</u> That year, the 11 IEA economies
avoided burning 1.5 billion tonnes of oil equivalent thanks to efficiency
improvements developed since 1974. By comparison, in 2010 those same economies
consumed about 1 billion tonnes of oil equivalent from assets developed over
the same period.<span style="color: #6a6c7f;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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No single fuel could impact energy markets like energy
efficiency has in recent history. Moving
forward, no existing fuel could be developed fast enough that could keep up
with the value of saving fuel. Chew on
that for a while.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The areas where the greatest improvements are needed? Home/business appliances and <a href="http://www.census.gov/econ/ict/definitions.html" target="_blank">Information Communication Technology (ICT)</a> are the two areas with the lowest hanging
fruit. The ICT category got unwelcome
headlines this summer when it was reported that<a href="http://theweek.com/article/index/248273/your-iphone-uses-more-energy-than-a-refrigerator" target="_blank"> the average iPhone uses more energy than a refrigerator</a> (when you consider network infrastructure energy consumption,
data center operations, and device energy usage). And cable/satellite set-top boxes are<a href="http://news.cnet.com/8301-31021_3-20071139-260/study-dvr-set-top-box-use-most-energy-at-home/" target="_blank"> well-known energy hogs</a>. Since mobile devices and DVR’s represent just a small portion of that inefficient ICT
category, it’s easy to understand why ICT is at the top of the list of
necessary improvements, according to the report. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Bottom line: The cleanest and cheapest energy<i> is the energy we don’t use.</i> <o:p></o:p></div>
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Energy Efficiency, FTW! <o:p></o:p></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-40113504763701633402013-10-31T13:02:00.002-05:002013-11-02T12:12:22.256-05:00A word about loose-fill fiberglass in attics: "No!"<div class="MsoNormal">
Along with stopping air leakage into/out of the home, the strength of your attic is frequently the biggest factor in
determining how well your home can protect you from the cold in winter months. Strong attics create comfort. So when a homeowner is told that they have
12” of insulation in their attic, that might just sound reasonable (it's close). Except that it depends on what material
constitutes that 12” of insulation. This infrared image of a ceiling at a home in Hecker, IL provides a case
in point: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMMtP6FpcatAucj7c5R0NaDVq5VYelVbFJaUd8AJ4L7Xk-k4h1Y42k5WWvhxktA4gjgbldk6KApn1OA-nUR0cl7FCL-tZYcYhwRZqaT5lbCfa8vh1La3hrPkFr15FOSd3nsYCPhdIo7aU/s1600/IR_0322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMMtP6FpcatAucj7c5R0NaDVq5VYelVbFJaUd8AJ4L7Xk-k4h1Y42k5WWvhxktA4gjgbldk6KApn1OA-nUR0cl7FCL-tZYcYhwRZqaT5lbCfa8vh1La3hrPkFr15FOSd3nsYCPhdIo7aU/s400/IR_0322.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Orange = warm, Blue = cold</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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Why does this ceiling look like it’s been tye-dyed? The answer is in the 12” of insulation material.<br />
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Too much cold air is getting through the 12” of loose-fill fiberglass
insulation** in the attic and is reaching this ceiling...thereby making the drywall on the
ceiling cold. And since the insulation is so porous and unevenly distributed, cold air gets down to the ceiling in pockets of least resistance and it shows up under infrared (in blue). This is happening in every room
of the house, and this "sucking" of heat from the ceiling through the fiberglass and into the attic space is called <i>convective heat loss.</i> Because of the cold
ceiling:</div>
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--<a href="http://prairieenergysolutions.com/2012/01/drafty-windowor-convective-looping.html">The problem of convective looping</a> is amplified, which exacerbates comfort issues. <o:p></o:p></div>
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--More heating fuel is used, at cost to the homeowner.<o:p></o:p></div>
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--Heating equipment and air distribution fans run longer, at
cost to the homeowner.<o:p></o:p></div>
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--Overworked heating equipment needs replaced more frequently, at
cost to the homeowner. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Worse, we see evidence that previous installers are either
using installation techniques that “fluff” loose-fill fiberglass and result in
lower densities (and lower performance), or install a popular, less-expensive <a href="http://www.certainteed.com/resources/OPTIMA_Instruct_Broch_30-24-290.pdf">fiberglass product that is only rated for walls</a>…or both. 12” of loose-fill fiberglass with these two
factors reduces RValues to near R10. Scary
thought: We see this inappropriate use of loose-fill fiberglass most often in houses that are built in the last 15 years. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p> </div>
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But this is not a new phenomenon. Loose-fill fiberglass in attics used to perform much worse. Back in the 90’s, loose-fill
fiberglass manufacturers were called out on this poor winter performance and in
1992 the State of Minnesota began requiring fiberglass manufacturers to acknowledge
this in their material documents. <a href="http://www.certainteed.com/resources/3024303.pdf">It’s a practice that continues to this day</a>.
Improvements to loose-fill fiberglass products have helped to mitigate this convective heat loss, but
it can’t be stopped with loose-fill fiberglass to the same degree that cellulose can.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The great news is that all is not lost if you have the white fluffy stuff in your
attic that can produce the tye-dyed ceilings.
A thin layer (at least 3”) of loose-fill cellulose on top of the existing
fiberglass restores the fiberglass' true RValue and knocks out the convective heat
loss problem. Problem solved, cellulose to the rescue.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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NOTE: We love loose-fill fiberglass when it is dense-packed
in wall cavities. Studies indicate
<a href="http://www.homeenergy.org/show/article/id/1772">d<span id="goog_55515383"></span>ense-pack fiberglass provides higher RValue in a closed wall cavity</a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/"><span id="goog_55515384"></span></a> than cellulose
can achieve in that same cavity. It works. Bravo! Just don’t use it in an
attic. Also, fiberglass batts--because of their construction--are
slightly less susceptible to convective heat loss that plagues loose-fill
fiberglass. Neither approach the
performance of cellulose in an attic. </div>
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If you have any
questions about our products and our philosophy on all insulation materials,
see our <a href="http://prairieenergysolutions.com/p/insulation.html">“Insulation”</a> page.</div>
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<i>**12” of cellulose gives you an R42. 12” of loose-fill fiberglass creates an R30. What’s the difference between the two? Cellulose is constituted of shorter, denser fibers which allow cellulose to cozy up real snug with other cellulose fibers. And it’s a little heavier, which means it fills in gaps and lays ‘tightly’. Because of this, there’s less opportunity for air to migrate through the cellulose material. Loose-fill fiberglass has longer fibers, provides less resistance to air movement, and allows for the convective heat loss effect that shows up in the infrared picture above. </i></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-89811016317464496782013-08-12T10:18:00.001-05:002013-08-12T21:26:12.881-05:00Is my home more valuable after insulation and air sealing?<div style="text-align: center;">
<object height="253" width="450"><param name="movie" value="//www.youtube.com/v/PklMrERnDIk?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0"></param>
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<embed src="//www.youtube.com/v/PklMrERnDIk?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="450" height="253" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
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The obvious answer to this clearly rhetorical question is <i>‘yes’. </i>All of the home’s occupants see an immediate improvement in comfort, utility bills are reduced by 15-35%, shorter run times mean the air conditioner and furnace will need to be replaced less frequently, and indoor air quality is improved after sealing off the areas of the home you don’t want to get your breathing air from.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If that's not value, we obviously don’t get it.</div>
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But if the question is re-phrased as “Is my home <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i>worth more</i></b> after insulating and air sealing?” then the obvious answer to this clearly rhetorical question is <i>‘no’. </i>Your appraiser, your lender and your real estate agent aren’t currently offered the tools to place a value on a home’s energy efficiency and properly credit the homebuyer and/or seller . <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br />
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That may be about to change.<br />
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It's called <a href="http://www.imt.org/resources/detail/save-act-fact-sheet" target="_blank">The SAVE Act</a> (<b>S</b>ensible <b>A</b>ccounting to <b>V</b>alue <b>E</b>nergy). The above video and <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2013/06/30/realestate/making-green-more-affordable.html?adxnnl=1&adxnnlx=1372781212-I0kw912v+0/ULK9O8TVqMQ&_r=2&" target="_blank">this article from the NY Times</a> explain all the important stuff, but here’s the gist of it:<br />
<br />
--An efficient home is worth more money because it costs less to operate.<br />
--All it takes to calculate the value of the utility savings is a home energy report.<br />
--Simple and proper accounting, with no cost to taxpayers, creates this opportunity.<br />
<br />
It would mean that energy efficient homes will sell for more money.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This also means that, when qualifying for a mortgage, buyers get a credit for the reduced cost of operation and can therefore qualify for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">more home</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The real estate agent will get paid the same percentage...but has bigger tickets to sell. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> It would mean that manufacturers and installers of energy-efficient products (well, hello there) stand to benefit. </span></div>
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Who wins?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Body.</div>
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The SAVE Act was a standalone bill until it was recently attached as an amendment to the <a href="http://www.shaheen.senate.gov/imo/media/doc/Shaheen-Portman_One%20Page_Summary_113th.pdf" target="_blank">Shaheen-Portman Energy Savings and Industrial Competitiveness Act<i> </i>(S.1392)</a>, which is entering the home stretch of its life span as a bill. If voted into law, the final hurdle would be to educate lenders and ensure that they have the necessary tools to assist homeowners and potential homeowners. And since most lenders understand full well how money works, we think it wouldn't take long for them to get on board and start offering this to customers and homeowners. <br />
<br />
The rubber hits the road when lawmakers reconvene from congressional recess on September 9th.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-73319830794286636092013-06-12T09:30:00.001-05:002014-08-25T11:19:20.525-05:00What is a 'rim joist' and why should I care?<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s the invisible part of your walls that nobody pays
attention to, partly because it’s out of sight in some homes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And maybe it’s because it has so many names
that nobody knows what to call it the darned thing: band joist, rim board, rim joist, band board,
<span class="st">ribbon, box band, box closure, and header joist</span>.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it’s all the same and the cavity
looks like this:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGQZYA1cdVXB-tM0rqvWSdh99Z54C0gVqXP_RJgrG_tiSriLtsi_FcR5fgPjX4ZANtAuxtaLmtxKXB2dNCs1EMHkAdmdxfKiwDjl7bz6Mo-80iTiHYrqMVd9rmxQkj5_myuJ0b90DCsBU/s1600/rim+joist+detail+pic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR3OHMA3f1sIoD1dXpx5Uq4k7xEeQWc5VYn6Sz-q9n51LGWveYuflbQfjTXpNAJVEcuacVaoirNovsoMB1JgIXd0ctQrvGKV_JN_plLSwdJmbNXws_vHhcTWdDiPJq3rYvE5-Zp2akIyI/s320/rim+joist+pic.jpg" height="212" width="320" /> </a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMY-I08odfyctWNFwv_m_2naEmR44HqrroG7wE4w2LEBB6SMIH9AocCJoQGxe1Jenqzszc71gsiyjxVClNGBQW9Z-ul9cm02nD2ZKu3fU0V1Zmna1sEYHq6sr8zz_2RlNSwFHR35OgtTU/s1600/Rim-joist+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMY-I08odfyctWNFwv_m_2naEmR44HqrroG7wE4w2LEBB6SMIH9AocCJoQGxe1Jenqzszc71gsiyjxVClNGBQW9Z-ul9cm02nD2ZKu3fU0V1Zmna1sEYHq6sr8zz_2RlNSwFHR35OgtTU/s320/Rim-joist+detail.jpg" height="320" width="307" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZTh6jcP2KzeRHxViFTpeEhaYDP4yK88se-JkyIzrA8zrfVuOCShENojdQp4-UBJOyKyO1DjP8pCrdDaizP_ke7FujDc_qHmSNo4hp5F6Wn9d3J9BiFudJWtYC0ZHLPwLSWH6IYBbGg9M/s1600/rim+joist+detail+pic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you have a basement with drywall on the ceiling, you won’t see
it and you can’t access it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you have
a drop ceiling basement, you can’t see it but you can access it by moving some
panels around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you have a crawlspace,
you have one of these, even if you can’t see it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(And you can access it, even if the thought
of going to see it isn’t attractive!)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Only houses built on a slab don’t have a rim joist.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here’s why these things matter to your healthy home and energy
efficiency: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">it’s a whole foot of wall
that is usually uninsulated or underinsulated</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Worse, this is typically one of the leakiest
parts of a home’s assembly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And worse yet, if improperly insulated, it could cause serious health concerns. This is a big
triple whammy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So what’s the fix?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The first thing to note is that fiberglass is not the
answer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is the path of least
resistance, as it is easy enough for a homeowner to cut squares of fiberglass
and pop them into place in a rim joist opening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We love DIY’ers, but this is a bad solution.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s a bad solution because fiberglass is
very air permeable and therefore allows too much heat or cold to
travel through the insulation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And because it is so air <u>and moisture</u> permeable, it
creates an even bigger threat: mold and, eventually, rot:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPzMlDOs57GB4axkXe3x85Ouhqbd6VHF8ZGlFxNY2Biu-UBIaPEezBIHSCxG8HQFq6gsfxPMlw3LzhJXxUgwmnp_P3bPjp3x0WAGfWuWU3LUZIfnnfSXCOIpc4ZfEVbIgZun3Bi3D_uBU/s1600/rim+joist+fiberglass+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPzMlDOs57GB4axkXe3x85Ouhqbd6VHF8ZGlFxNY2Biu-UBIaPEezBIHSCxG8HQFq6gsfxPMlw3LzhJXxUgwmnp_P3bPjp3x0WAGfWuWU3LUZIfnnfSXCOIpc4ZfEVbIgZun3Bi3D_uBU/s320/rim+joist+fiberglass+2.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUxk-c-CnDXvpkb_Ufu-O2FroIYu5czJQjlmys5U4O9Z2xNDYWI2PLKuxzfMJG3weC69KizTEy6X0uVdhHmUy_dxGoNwdZ3CzbYI429LY6DtdKzRQk3u9A2V8fjTX6HEKBbc5f2k0-19Y/s1600/rim+joist+fiberglass.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUxk-c-CnDXvpkb_Ufu-O2FroIYu5czJQjlmys5U4O9Z2xNDYWI2PLKuxzfMJG3weC69KizTEy6X0uVdhHmUy_dxGoNwdZ3CzbYI429LY6DtdKzRQk3u9A2V8fjTX6HEKBbc5f2k0-19Y/s320/rim+joist+fiberglass.JPG" height="240" width="320" /> </a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Think of your glass of tea in the summertime.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The contents of the glass are ice cold, and
attract moisture to the surface of the glass, causing condensation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The same thing happens in your home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The surface of the rim joist
gets so cold, or hot, that it attracts condensation on the inside (in winter)
or outside (in summer) of the rim joist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Because fiberglass is so air and moisture permeable, it does almost
nothing to stop that<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>surface from
collecting moisture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This happens day
after day, the surface never gets a chance to dry, and bam: mold develops.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So the best solution is to create a thermal barrier in these
cavities that stops the air flow and doesn’t create this big temperature
differential leading to condensation and, eventually, mold.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is accomplished with rigid foam board or
two-part spray foam.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These products serve the
dual purpose of insulating while removing the risk of condensation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rigid foam board can be cut into rectangles
and held in place around the perimeter with a one-part spray foam (like Great Stuff in a can).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two-part spray foam should <i>always</i> be
installed by a professional with the proper training as improper installation
can lead to serious air quality problems from off-gassing of the materials. Whichever solution you choose, 2" of material is the standard application.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And as for the leaky part: concrete and wood are two rigid
materials which never align perfectly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>And yet that’s exactly what exists in every home with a basement or
crawlspace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Responsible builders
understand this and use what’s called a sill gasket to fill in any gaps between
the wood structure and the foundation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You can spot one in your home by looking for a thin piece of foam
(usually green) sandwiched in between where wall
structure sits on the concrete foundation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you don’t have one of these, your home is
a perfect candidate for air sealing due to air infiltration that
makes it harder to condition your home, year-round.<br />
<br />
Final thought on rim joists. Check out the heat loss from this uninsulated rim joist. Blue = cold, orange = hot. (Click for a larger image.)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhghmURiK8UAxOFq7D0wpew_cESFB4Oz31fXtfInIEqM8S718RepCo9bcQuXeHn7InxsDLrCUDyg3hNQmV0vfwyYoEttn9dZ40zVKppH-sOx5Cib4akDEU1iNuThnNx9eRcMbEJysrBmEE/s1600/Heat-loss-at-rim-joist1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhghmURiK8UAxOFq7D0wpew_cESFB4Oz31fXtfInIEqM8S718RepCo9bcQuXeHn7InxsDLrCUDyg3hNQmV0vfwyYoEttn9dZ40zVKppH-sOx5Cib4akDEU1iNuThnNx9eRcMbEJysrBmEE/s400/Heat-loss-at-rim-joist1.jpg" height="200" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-20865702470451529472013-05-11T09:09:00.001-05:002013-05-11T09:09:23.299-05:00The Hot Summer Window<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2MtMKQTjNlmKVaBaTRf2lfvpLuliW0mXz2R0VwluVJo2yDEAJagbiP6dW9bvSiWWVS1fu5qqzjeBnPhvTUazeZ5E15tHcTczulZ4Pmod8vKFi11Bgv9hD5W7U6HjxfVFVN5117YKcJB8/s1600/sources+of+heat+gain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2MtMKQTjNlmKVaBaTRf2lfvpLuliW0mXz2R0VwluVJo2yDEAJagbiP6dW9bvSiWWVS1fu5qqzjeBnPhvTUazeZ5E15tHcTczulZ4Pmod8vKFi11Bgv9hD5W7U6HjxfVFVN5117YKcJB8/s320/sources+of+heat+gain.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Call the cops: your windows are killing your air conditioner!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Look, we like windows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>From inside the boxes/houses we inhabit, windows make us feel connected
to the natural world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That’s great.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also like the Sun; it’s pretty useful and
stuff. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the hot summer window <i>is a
drag</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And the typical options for curing
this problem don’t work, they’re cumbersome, they’re ugly, or they cost a
fortune.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Awnings can be garish and expensive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Heavy blinds don’t do the trick because
they’re on the window’s interior side and -- while they’ll protect your wood
floor from UV rays -- are barely a speed bump for the sun’s relentless summer
violence because the glass itself still gets super hot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Window tinting film can’t be installed or
removed without a fight, and doesn’t protect the outside of the window’s glass
from getting direct sun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Enter Solar Screens. </div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Designed
to replace a window’s insect screen, they do the most important thing that
window shading can do: <i>they stop the sun before it gets to the glass</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a bonus, they stop up to 94% of UV rays,
which means that flooring, furniture and belongings aren’t damaged by exposure
to all of that UV light.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="http://prairieenergysolutions.com/p/solar-screens.html" target="_blank">They have a host of other benefits that we’ve outlined here.</a> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bottom line: Solar Screens are the bee’s knees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And your air conditioner agrees with us. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-70365730622054074452013-03-27T12:35:00.000-05:002013-03-27T12:35:55.415-05:00Building Codes: Why they matterBuildings, especially homes, have gotten <i>a</i> <i>lot</i> more efficient in the last 30 years, as this graphic illustrates:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX7X3DqBtwH15aYzult-vtoOxTp9EQgI6iy5St0ZzAmXkIgQsxtv8hzF5b9j8ray0nsldY8spQYVOsMWdN7Y2wvflifgRX2_CsLb2H4rVQb0ojvLjRTWpvKbXoNPTyJKWUGeNPOqZHHLE/s1600/code+graphic.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX7X3DqBtwH15aYzult-vtoOxTp9EQgI6iy5St0ZzAmXkIgQsxtv8hzF5b9j8ray0nsldY8spQYVOsMWdN7Y2wvflifgRX2_CsLb2H4rVQb0ojvLjRTWpvKbXoNPTyJKWUGeNPOqZHHLE/s320/code+graphic.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
(click on graphic for enhanced view)<br />
<br />
The <a href="http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/overview-2012-energy-code" target="_blank">2012 IECC Building Code is coming to a state near you</a> (hello, Illinois) and that's changing the way builders operate, bid and construct new buildings. People don't much like change, and we get that. Stiffer codes mean higher first costs, but lower operating costs. As painful as the transition is, the payoffs -- and the return on investment -- are there.<br />
<br />
We're on the <a href="http://ilcodediagnostics.org/blower-door-testers?circle_op=%3C&circle[value]=15&circle[location]=62242" target="_blank">State of IL approved list for blower door testing</a> of new construction, and we're ready to help homeowners and home builders make the transition. Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-27242505134139999142013-02-11T14:14:00.000-06:002013-02-22T15:30:55.859-06:00We're turning regular homes into certified Green Homes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfLRUgg_DRoJzV7-qq3UokWRz6VzL-K2w7sOD4nhD1EM8WLO6nCG1FskIT01WaaVDb9060sLMPqMydx-KLG2UOkv1dwFppMUfVCrrzIOt5JyHfEnObXGojdqK4UgFKsA8Kmqnt-755-Bg/s1600/ihp+w+es+Large+Horizontal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="92" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfLRUgg_DRoJzV7-qq3UokWRz6VzL-K2w7sOD4nhD1EM8WLO6nCG1FskIT01WaaVDb9060sLMPqMydx-KLG2UOkv1dwFppMUfVCrrzIOt5JyHfEnObXGojdqK4UgFKsA8Kmqnt-755-Bg/s400/ihp+w+es+Large+Horizontal.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We’re happy to announce that we have awarded our first <a href="http://www.illinoishomeperformance.org/what-expect/certificate" target="_blank">Home Performance with Energy Star certificate</a> to Columbia
resident Kathy H. -- and it’s the first certificate of its kind awarded in Columbia,
IL.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Homeowners (and Ameren customers) are rewarded
for their energy efficiency upgrades with this Energy Star certification, if it
meets the Energy Star criteria for energy savings. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We hit the mark for both air sealing and
insulation and now Kathy lives in and owns an Energy Star home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Congratulations, Kathy! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here’s the best part: </div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Imagine that you spend $200 this year to save $200 in the
next five years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That means your payback
period is 5 years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well, the payback
period on Energy Star/green homes has a twist: since we know that green homes
are selling at a 9% premium (<a href="http://content.usatoday.com/communities/greenhouse/post/2012/07/study-green-homes-sell-for-9-more-in-california/1#.URlQgfLkL0c" target="_blank">see this study conducted over five years and of over onemillion homes in California</a>), <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Kathy has already reached
the payback period on her investment</i> – and then some. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We can’t think of another investment that
offers this kind of immediate return.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And
we haven’t even gotten to the part about improved air quality, a more
comfortable home, a smaller carbon footprint and lower energy bills.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the kind of home improvement we can’t
see from our recliners when the work is completed…but the benefits outnumber
just about anything else we can do to our homes – and for the people that live
in them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
If you're still not impressed, try this: Through Ameren's Home Energy Performance Program (HEP) program, Kathy got Ameren to pay for $750 of the cost of the project! True story. <a href="http://www.prairieenergysolutions.com/p/incentives-and-rebates.html" target="_blank">See our incentives page for the details on this program. </a><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you’re an Ameren customer and ready to save money while living in a
more comfortable certified green home, we can get you there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-47086857831851455882013-01-28T10:26:00.000-06:002013-01-28T10:47:59.638-06:00UK's Green (New) Deal<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBj85ZB6AKAwvwlAs9rvqTywd4-TqvsfMthn4gYzyp7gFKbDzfvaB6cg_VlTMajkLDv_ikQfcTRCYRyr3Qch3pMJyygE-3sg8XuCGDS173eKn21D4R71FJ4eNLhi9Uhl21GyjXCg9MUI8/s1600/Green-Deal-Plan-promo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBj85ZB6AKAwvwlAs9rvqTywd4-TqvsfMthn4gYzyp7gFKbDzfvaB6cg_VlTMajkLDv_ikQfcTRCYRyr3Qch3pMJyygE-3sg8XuCGDS173eKn21D4R71FJ4eNLhi9Uhl21GyjXCg9MUI8/s400/Green-Deal-Plan-promo.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The Brits are all abuzz about their "Green Deal" -- a government-hatched energy efficiency program -- which launches today. <a href="http://www.economist.com/blogs/blighty/2013/01/green-deal" target="_blank">Here's a link to the highlights about this highly anticipated and aggressive approach to reducing energy demand across an entire economy. </a> <br />
<br />
<br />
Naturally, there's moaning and wailing about whether or not this will be successful or fraudulent or cost-effective or insert-your-concern-about-anything-government-hatched. The overarching theme is this:<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
residents in Great Britain will have access to financing for energy efficiency measures like insulation and air sealing (which the Brits refer to as "draught-proofing"). Residents and homeowners will be able to pay back the cost of the improvements through their utility bills. The only real problem that exists with this program (because we know all these measures <i>do work</i> to reduce demand) is the potential for dumb people to do dumb things and take advantage of homeowners. The majority of the criticism of the Green Deal (they should've just changed it to "New Deal" and David William Donald Cameron should just go ahead and change his name to Franklin Delano Roosevelt now) is based on the prediction that dumb people will indeed do dumb things. Well, welcome to everything. Dumb people aren't a new invention. The program will achieve its goals, because we know all these efficiency measures are desperately needed and they absolutely work. And they will, despite the dumb people.<br />
<br />
And while we salute the initiative, we can't help getting all <i>American</i> about this and note that if you are an Illinois resident...you already have access to this forward-thinking new program! (America 14, UK 1. Woot!) <a href="http://prairieenergysolutions.blogspot.com/p/financing.html" target="_blank">See our financing page</a> for the details on financing and the possibility of doing it through your utility bill. <br />
<br />
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-60860176596282943442012-11-08T11:19:00.001-06:002012-11-08T11:19:13.808-06:00Energy Efficiency: Information MotherlodeWe like to learn stuff, so we read. A lot. And rarely do we find a news article that can efficiently and effectively detail the many ways that you and I can save energy and money (Monergy) in our homes. So when we find one, we like to pass it along. <a href="http://green.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/11/08/first-things-first-an-efficient-abode/" target="_blank">This one is the best we've seen in ages.</a> It starts with a focus on solar power, but rightly concludes that we are all best served by examining all the ways we can conserve energy before paying for a system that provides us this energy. The less energy our home requires, the less we will have to invest in utility costs or renewable energy sources for our home. Simple concept. Some efficiency excerpts from the article:<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a> <br /><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<i>“You can’t go to a standard residential home and slap PV (PhotoVoltaic solar panels) on it and
think you have solved our energy problems,” Mr. Tobe said. “We can’t
make enough PV modules on planet earth to solve our energy issues if we
don’t address how we use energy first.”</i></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<i><b>Heating and cooling <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_where_money">consumes almost half</a>
the energy in a typical American home</b>, so designing a building that
naturally stays thermally comfortable is the best way to reduce energy
consumption.</i></div>
<br />
and...<br />
<br />
<i>The other major power suck, according to Mr. Tobe, are phantom loads.
These are the myriad of electronic devices that consume small amounts
of power even when they are off. The main culprits are home
entertainment equipment like television sets and stereos and on any
device that has a power converter, that little box on the end of its
power cord where you plug it into the wall, like cellphone and laptop
chargers.</i><br />
<br />
<i>For example, Mr Tobe said, an <b>average DVD player uses
about 20 watts of power to play a two-hour movie. But the other 22 hours
of the day, when it is doing nothing, it still burns through 44 watts
of power, more than twice what it took to actually do its job. </b> The
cheap and easy fix, Mr. Tobe said, is to buy surge protectors, plug
your electronics into them, and switch them off when not in use.</i><br />
<br />
and our favorite, which is the first thing the article emphasizes and dovetails neatly with the first excerpt...<br />
<br />
<i>Emily and her design team chose to build homes from straw bales partly
because the material is <b>superinsulating</b>, resulting in drastically lower
heating and air-conditioning costs. Yet she is not installing solar
panels or any other electricity generation system based on renewable
energy sources.<br /><span id="more-150765"></span></i> <i><br /> She came to that decision after meeting Jeff Tobe, a photovoltaic instructor for the Colorado-based nonprofit <a href="http://www.solarenergy.org/seistaff/jeff-tobe">Solar Energy International</a>.
<b>Although he is a strong solar advocate, he convinced Emily that solar
panels were not where she should put her time or her clients’ money.</b></i><br />
<br />
Funny: an article with an emphasis on solar power contains <b>expert advice to do everything else before installing solar</b>! <br />
<br />
Efficiency first, always. <br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-76003751038258657372012-09-21T11:17:00.000-05:002012-09-21T11:42:33.908-05:00Home Energy Myths <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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We found <a href="http://members.questline.com/Article.aspx?articleID=15983&accountID=509&nl=12849&goback=.gde_3006223_member_117962423" target="_blank">this information today from PSE&G </a>(energy
provider in the northeast US),
which aims to dispel common misconceptions about energy in our homes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some really good stuff in this article
including a couple of our favorites:</div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman";">·</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b>When an appliance is turned off, it
is off. </b>Many appliances and home electronic devices continue to use
power after they have been turned off—sometimes as much as if they were on.
This is known as </i><i><span style="font-style: normal; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">standby power </span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">or </i><i><span style="font-style: normal; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">phantom load</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">. The only way to stop the drain of power
from these devices is to unplug them.</i></div>
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<br /></div>
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The actual number is 90%: devices in standby mode use 90% of
the energy that they use when they're ‘on’. <br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Brutal. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The
secret weapon against phantom power is <a href="http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/green-tech/sustainable/smart-power-strip.htm" target="_blank">the smart power strip</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some utility providers offer rebate checks on certain brands
of smart power strips. </div>
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And while we love the effort, we’ll somewhat take them to task for this one:</div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ascii-font-family: "Times New Roman";">·</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b>Purchasing an efficient
air-conditioner or furnace will automatically reduce energy bills. </b>This
is true to an extent, but optimal savings will not be achieved unless the
system is sized and installed correctly. Installing an efficient, but
over-sized, system may negate much of the potential savings, while a poorly
designed duct system will also impact efficiency and comfort. Windows, doors,
and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>insulation</u> </b>also affect
heating and cooling efficiency.</i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></i></div>
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We’ll take them to task for this because, frequently, the biggest
factor that determines the efficient performance of the furnace and air
conditioner in a home is the last thing they mention: Insulation!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And they fail to mention air leakage at
all.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every day we see homeowners
struggling with a furnace or an air conditioner that runs non-stop, all
day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The vast majority of the time it’s
the result of inadequate insulation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It’s hard to keep the box-that-is-our-house cool in the summer when the
box isn’t sufficiently protected against heat; and the opposite is true, and more costly, in the winter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Insulation and air sealing work! </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-60441502805000593062012-07-18T12:29:00.000-05:002012-08-27T11:56:49.937-05:00Evolving Lighting: An LED bulb under $10<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7kmE2jAB8FiEjZhY2pfD8fXWEP1fWia5Ey8KeYf3hTljhWfvnG2YwcX5vBdkY6hHYvZACuIiUjW7hHHKqVC3UgRyXV9AGTZw58KkLHfNv96wTO5Dt2c7sKvdrctqd7_zALwrWxpac0GY/s1600/utilitech+LED+bulb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7kmE2jAB8FiEjZhY2pfD8fXWEP1fWia5Ey8KeYf3hTljhWfvnG2YwcX5vBdkY6hHYvZACuIiUjW7hHHKqVC3UgRyXV9AGTZw58KkLHfNv96wTO5Dt2c7sKvdrctqd7_zALwrWxpac0GY/s320/utilitech+LED+bulb.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
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As we noted previously in this space, old-school incandescent bulbs
create 90% heat and just 10% light. That's awful for a device that is built to do one thing: produce light! <br />
<br />
CFL
bulbs are much more efficient, creating just 35% heat and 65% light.<br />
<br />
The new LED bulbs produce <i>10% heat and 90% light.</i> <br />
<br />
It isn’t difficult to see which is most
efficient. And on top of efficiency, LED
bulbs are rated to last 20 years or more.
The big drawback with LED’s, however, has always been the price tag. </div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
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When we first started buying LED bulbs 18 months ago, the
price tag for a 60W-equivalent bulb was $40 or more.
If you wanted an LED bulb that was equivalent to a 40w the cost was
$25. That buys a lot of CFL bulbs,
right? Well, with (slightly overblown)
concerns about mercury exposure from broken CFL bulbs and the relatively short
lifespan of CFL vs LED, we want all the bulbs in our home to be LED! But the cost of replacing the all the CFL’s
in our home with LED’s (over $650 at that time) was pretty steep to upgrade only 10% of our energy usage (lighting typically uses 10-12% of a home's overall energy consumption). </div>
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Well, the cost of replacing light bulbs just dropped significantly. </div>
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Last week, we saw something we haven’t seen before: <a href="http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=338802-75774-LA19DM%2FLED&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3341246&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=rel&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1" target="_blank">a 40w-equivalent LED bulb for $9.98 at one of the big box stores</a>. We bought a couple and put them in our
almost-always-on traffic areas around our home.
There is no difference that we can tell in the 'warm color' of the bulb
(measured in Kelvins) and we are looking forward to the savings. With an estimated operating cost of .90 cents
per year, the savings will start piling up quickly! Time to
stock up. </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-91293266433346446872012-06-01T18:24:00.003-05:002012-06-20T16:13:52.548-05:00Windows: beat the summer heat but keep the view<a href="http://prairieenergysolutions.com/p/solar-screens.html" target="_blank">Check out our newly updated Solar Screen page</a> with more pictures and information to help you see for yourself why Solar Screens are such a practical choice. Solar Screens allow you to:<br />
<br />
--Live more comfortably<br />
--Save money on cooling the home during the summer months <br />
--Create more privacy in your home<br />
<br />
There's a long list of reasons why Solar Screens rock. <a href="http://prairieenergysolutions.com/p/solar-screens.html" target="_blank">See our page for the details!</a> <br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVlBK4yDvpTQ2s6LPClDsf6dZquwRhpMQbvBWaA6QR0CmaA9hjUESL2n8Hvm5K6xHRAHbDxEfT7Ys93jD6CQCJCgqM7VW4TKCbc5UgLbIMkd5J3qT8dfLUh7e2Dhip3-7IE1qWWxo4b2Q/s1600/solar+screen+interior+pic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVlBK4yDvpTQ2s6LPClDsf6dZquwRhpMQbvBWaA6QR0CmaA9hjUESL2n8Hvm5K6xHRAHbDxEfT7Ys93jD6CQCJCgqM7VW4TKCbc5UgLbIMkd5J3qT8dfLUh7e2Dhip3-7IE1qWWxo4b2Q/s320/solar+screen+interior+pic.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-12694701283838237212012-04-12T15:58:00.005-05:002012-06-20T11:07:22.986-05:00Replacement Water Heaters: Solid Options<span style="font-size: small;">I've had a run of questions recently about Water Heaters in the last few weeks, so today we'll share our recommendations with you in case you find yourself in the market for a new one in the near future. </span><br />
<br />
All the details after the jump.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">We'll start with our favorite, the Solar Water Heater. These aren't very popular yet, due to upfront costs ($1,500-$4,000), longer payback (8-10 years) and <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=tax_credits.tx_index" target="_blank">lack of dynamic incentives</a> (with no extra state incentives). The savings could be $400-500 annually. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">If you can't shell out that kind of money for a water heater, you still have some good options--regardless of whether you are heating with electric or gas. As usual, we present these with the incentives for the largest utility provider in our part of the state (Ameren). It should be noted that some of the electric co-operatives are selling High Efficiency 50 gallon Marathon Water Heaters directly to co-operative members at about $150 under the retail price. Talk to your co-operative to see if they are participating. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>
<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Heat Pump Water Heaters -- Electric</b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">--Consumes 50-60 % less
energy than other water heaters</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">--Saves about $200/year</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>--If replacing an electric water heater, </b>$300<b> </b>rebate
check from Ameren.
</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Ace Hardware, 60 gallon
(online) -- $1,600</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Home Depot, 50 gallon --
$1,300</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Sears, 50 Gallon -- $1,000 </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>.67% Efficiency Factor (EF) Water
Heaters -- Natural Gas</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">--Consumes 20-30% less energy</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">--Saves about $75/year</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>--$50 rebate check</b> from Ameren</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Ace Hardware –Can’t locate a
unit this efficient on their website </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Home Depot, 40 gallon (Power
Vented) -- $600 </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b> </b>**Water Heaters with a .67 EF qualify for $50 Ameren rebate
check</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> Tankless Water Heaters – Natural Gas</b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">These are pretty neat. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">--30% energy savings over
standard water heater, about $100/year </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">--They heat water only when
you need it and send it through the line.
</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">--A lot of these are super
high-efficient (.82 EF!) and can handle the load of a typical 3 bedroom two
bath house. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">--They are much smaller than
typical water heaters because they don’t have a 40-50 gallon tank attached. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">--They provide endless hot
water for one major usage at a time.
Since most people probably don’t take a shower at the same time they
fill up the washing machine and wash the towels on ‘hot’ this isn’t an issue
for most people. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Ace hardware, $720</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Home Depot, $700</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;">**Water Heaters with a .70 EF qualify for $75 Ameren rebate
check</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Ideas for achieving super-low upfront
cost</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">If you have just experienced
sticker shock, another option would be to buy a gas water heater timer for $110
and pair it with a baseline unit ($300).
You will improve the performance of the cheaper water heater, and the
timer can be set to run it less hot between something like 7pm-4am. The timer will pay for itself in less than 3
years. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Also buy an insulation jacket
for the gas hot water heater at a cost of $25.
It will pay for itself in less than 12 months. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">These measures will help the
cheap water heater, but it won’t qualify for an incentive and it may not be
rated to last as long as the high-efficiency models. In addition, the power-vented model and the
tankless model have spent gases like carbon monoxide <i>directly vented
to the exterior </i>through a connected pipe.
The less-expensive models are natural draft water heaters that <i>could </i>allow that exhaust air to mix with
the air in your home. We like safety.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Best bet:</b> If the upfront cost doesn’t scare you off,
the Heat Pump water heater is well worth it, but the tankless system is where
it’s at. When you compare it to the
baseline model, the extra expense of the Heat Pump heater is paid back in about
three years. The payback period on the
tankless water heater is just under two years. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">In addition to the Ameren
rebate, you may be able to get a federal tax credit. <b>However</b>,
the old credit expired at the end of 2011.
There is language in the Highway Bill being debated in the US House right
now (it passed the US Senate) that would reinstate the tax credits for energy
efficient equipment, insulation, etc.
But it hasn’t passed yet.
Reinstating the old incentives would mean a $300 tax credit for the Heat
Pump water heater. It would mean a $300
tax credit for a super high-efficiency water heater—like a tankless model--which
has a .82 EF or above. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">These tax credits could be
claimed in addition to the Ameren incentives, <i>if and when they are reinstated</i>.
</span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-9856464015411077342012-02-20T15:46:00.005-06:002012-06-20T11:08:23.151-05:00Gas Leaks: Two Kinds of Bad<br />
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We lead with the most important part of today’s message: In our recent (unscientific) poll of energy professionals and HVAC pros, homes that use natural gas or propane have an average of one gas leak per home. To back that up, 90% of the homes we've visited this winter had a gas leak present. 90%! Most of the homes we’ve visited have multiple
leaks, including five (!) at a home in Glen Carbon. This is why we decided to write about it today. </div>
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<br /></div>
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So, our advice is this: find out if you have gas leaks. </div>
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There are ways you tell if you have gas leaks yourself. HOWEVER, if you already smell gas in your
home or if you suspect you do have a leak, DO NOT take the steps described
below. Call your gas/propane provider
(see the local list below). They have
employees ‘on the beat’, ready to test your house for leaks, using the state-of-the-art tools. They typically respond quickly, at all hours,
to make sure you and your family are safe. (And since nearly half of the homes we've tested this winter have had leaks <i>before</i> the gas meter, they save money by fixing leaks, too.) </div>
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If you don’t think you have leaks, but would like to run
your own quick check, the best weapon at your disposal is your nose. Put it to use in areas where there are many
connections, turns, and valves within the network of gas supply lines. For safety reasons, both natural gas and
propane are infused with a chemical compound (mercaptan) that makes them stink
a bit like rotten eggs. Employing your
sniffer in these areas will help find the biggest potential problems. Again, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">if
you smell gas, exit the premises and call your gas supplier first before doing
anything else. </i></div>
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<br /></div>
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If you hesitate to walk away from a spot that is questionable,
one highly effective way to locate leaks is simple to make and
simple to use: Soapy water. Mix dish
soap or hand soap one-to-one with water in a spray bottle or squirt bottle. Find that questionable spot and coat it with
a couple of squirts of the soapy water. Within 60 seconds, you will now see the escaping gas/leaks where you have bubbles foaming at the joints and valves
on the pipes. Reminder: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">if you smell gas, or see evidence of gas
leaks, make sure you call your gas provider first before doing anything else!</i></div>
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Gas leaks are bad for the obvious reasons; exposure to these
gases can lead to all kinds of health problems.
All you have to do is Google “gas leaks” to see new stories every day
about a tragedy involving combustible gases in the home. Don’t wait.</div>
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The financial incentives<span style="font-family: inherit;"> aren’t as important as the health
of you and your family, but they are real, nonetheless. Stay safe and save Monergy by stop</span>ping gas
leaks!</div>
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Gas/Propane suppliers in Southern Illinois:</div>
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Ameren: 800.755.5000</div>
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Amerigas: <span class="phone">877.909.2240</span></div>
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<span class="phone">Midwestern Propane: 800.366.4036 </span><br />
<span class="phone">Select Propane: 618.282.LPG1</span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-72375407273284438342012-01-25T14:11:00.002-06:002013-05-30T14:58:20.044-05:00Drafty Window...or Convective Looping?<br />
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Most everyone at one point or another has experienced cool air that shoots from the windows and into the rest of the room. The “Drafty Window” is one of the most common complaints we hear from homeowners looking for more comfort in their castle. Conventional wisdom has always stated that the cold air coming <i>through</i> the window is the cause of the drafty window; a window that has its structure compromised—somehow—and lets in that cool air in during winter months. The concept of the drafty window is a staple of our energy (in)efficiency language. </div>
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The truth? Most of the time, it isn’t the window leaking air—it’s convective looping.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6rfa8UAO6v7xyMR7mpUUzv3BNL9g12oQhM7-uVCStmTdp0LNwzwKWbX_glgPr6NF2GfZuMTvyaAFaK-03DjxTla4T7RL2OOeOiaRjYuCIdwAdesgrZoSbQj8llH-kYcMoDTpNJSx8I30/s1600/convection+loop+1l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6rfa8UAO6v7xyMR7mpUUzv3BNL9g12oQhM7-uVCStmTdp0LNwzwKWbX_glgPr6NF2GfZuMTvyaAFaK-03DjxTla4T7RL2OOeOiaRjYuCIdwAdesgrZoSbQj8llH-kYcMoDTpNJSx8I30/s400/convection+loop+1l.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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As the graphic illustrates, warm air (which likes to sit at the top of our rooms) reaches the window and comes in contact with the cold glass. What happens to cold air? It sinks. In fact, that air turns colder and colder, picking up speed as it slides down the window to the floor. It hits the floor and, since it can’t go through the floor, it zooms to the center of the room where it eventually is displaced by the next cycle of colder air and then…rises to the top of the room. So the cycle repeats. Over and over and over… </div>
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And another thing: in the event that cold air <i>is</i> actually coming from outside the home, it probably isn’t coming around the glass, the sash or the window itself: it is likely sneaking around the window trim or the casing around a window frame. All too often, window and door trim (or baseboard, for that matter) isn’t caulked or sealed. Frequently it is easier for that cold air to go around the window framing than through the window. Look at the connection between the window trim and the wall. Is there a crack or gap? If so, that is the likely spot where cold air is getting into your house and stealing your money.<br />
<br />
Now, if you do have a problem with a loose sash that is letting air through the body of the window itself, then there is a temporary fix for that that doesn't require you to seal the trouble spot permanently: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/18324-Seal-Removable-Caulk-10-1-Ounce/dp/B0002YVNOQ" target="_blank">Seal 'N Peel temporary caulk</a> can be applied in winter and removed in Spring when you want to open your windows. It's the best of both worlds. (Though, it is scented like vanilla because it stinks pretty good. Prepare for 24 hours of this.) </div>
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To fix the leaky window trim problem: caulk will stop the infiltrating air.</div>
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To fix the convective loop problem: well, it can’t be stopped completely. Heavy drapes can help, but won’t completely stop the air current. Air can still be drawn in from the sides or top of drapes. Weatherizing windows with plastic sheeting is the best way to mitigate the cold window surface that draws the air from the top of the room to the floor.</div>
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And if you are having difficulty identifying which problem you have, call us. We can help. </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-51782337454083947472012-01-03T10:10:00.008-06:002012-06-20T11:09:18.489-05:00The widespread adoption of solar power: Baby Steps<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5KdOWRuEEQynSH-RsKR5fWUyllshmphU5m0xR362Wzy7YYWwbNCPw4qZsvjYFZvR_uUWkXtPxL5hcxxEHx381h6TaU-9fP8iZ7V9UuAYKtolHNs6YXwe7FxfmpxyEatwfH8UaGIxcE-8/s1600/solar+STORAGE-articleLarge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5KdOWRuEEQynSH-RsKR5fWUyllshmphU5m0xR362Wzy7YYWwbNCPw4qZsvjYFZvR_uUWkXtPxL5hcxxEHx381h6TaU-9fP8iZ7V9UuAYKtolHNs6YXwe7FxfmpxyEatwfH8UaGIxcE-8/s320/solar+STORAGE-articleLarge.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
As the author of <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2012/01/03/business/energy-environment/building-storehouses-for-the-suns-energy-for-use-after-dark.html?_r=1" target="_blank">this NY Times article</a> points out, the biggest problem that solar power has always faced is this: <i>what happens when the sun goes down</i>? Solar panels, after all, are fairly dependent on the 'solar' part. <br />
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<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
The solar power storage facilities described in the article aren't the silver bullet. The molten salt used to store the heat (which is used to help produce steam and then electricity) can only retain that heat for "hours". And reading between the lines, the molten salt is prone to freezing (!), and could create outages. It sounds like getting a storage tower back online in that event may not be an easy task, since <i>"once molten, it must be kept that way or it will freeze to a solid in part of the plant where it will be difficult to melt again"</i>. <br />
<br />
We like reading about technology like 'molten salt', and revel in advances like the storage of solar energy. But what is most interesting in this article is that good money is being wagered on a dramatic shift in the definition of 'peak power':<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<i>The notion is that widespread adoption of solar panels — whether on rooftops or in giant arrays in the desert — will change the hours at which prices are highest.</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<i>Today, electricity prices usually peak in the late afternoon and evening on hot summer days. “Photovoltaic panels will do a pretty good job of chopping that peak” in the late afternoon, said <a href="http://www.nrel.gov/analysis/staff/p_denholm.html">Paul Denholm</a>, a solar specialist at the National Renewable Energy Laboratory in Boulder, Colo. In other words, the new price peak will be pushed to later in the day, to just before and after sunset, when solar photovoltaic production is small or nonexistent...</i></div>
</blockquote>
<br />
We currently define peak power, or peak capacity, as the time of day when the most number of people 'open the tap' all at the same time--the heat of the afternoon in summertime when air conditioners are buzzing everywhere. If solar panels become more affordable and are more widely adopted, then all those consumers with solar panels will have the greatest need to tap into stored power...at what time of day? <i>Right. </i><br />
<br />
So while experts believe this technology could drive down electricity costs by 25-30%, the short-term, molten-salt storage model is designed to capitalize on an as-yet-to-exist energy structure; exploit it, even. It's not yet about creating energy <i>security</i>. <br />
<br />
Hey, baby steps.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-26307545047963531872011-12-20T09:13:00.002-06:002012-01-25T14:23:18.004-06:00Politics and Light BulbsWe never really understood the furor over banning incandescent light bulbs, which was to have taken effect Jan. 1, 2012. (Notice the use of "was"? More on that in a minute...). First, all incandescent bulbs were not to be be banned--<i>only the 100 watt incandescent bulb</i>, the most inefficient of the incandescent energy hogs, faced the guillotine. And that wasn't such a big deal, since manufacturers have already begun replacing the 100-watter with a more efficient 72-watt incandescent. It was much ado about nothing, as American ingenuity and efficiency overcame this with a snap of the fingers. Problem? Fixed!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2011/dec/16/congress-overturns-incandescent-light-bulb-ban/" target="_blank">Now, however, comes word</a> that the ban on 100-watt incandescent bulbs has been overturned--the language tucked into the new 1,200 page spending bill that will assuredly be signed by our president. The rider in the spending bill simply defunds the Fed's ability to enforce the ban, and does it only for 2012. <a href="http://www.floridatoday.com/article/20111220/COLUMNISTS0207/312200002/Matt-Reed-Repeal-lightbulb-ban-dim-move" target="_blank">Here's an op-ed which lays out the hypocrisy of all of this</a>, and the politics that extend back to 2007 when these standards were initially passed. <br />
<br />
So who is the big winner here? Well, energy efficiency. We believe that anything that gets us all talking about monergy is a good thing. So since you're here, consider this:<br />
<br />
--90% of the energy created by a traditional (incandescent) bulb is heat
and only 10% of it is light. (That is not a typo.)<br />
--CFL bulbs
produce 30% heat and 70% light.<br />
--LED bulbs produce 10% heat and 90% light--and are rated to last up to 20 years.<br />
<br />
Choose wisely! Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-30719356204765855582011-12-16T09:08:00.000-06:002011-12-16T09:08:53.742-06:00Incentives: Do YOU know?<a href="http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/home_blog/2011/10/energy-efficiency-rebates-incentives.html">This isn't a new article, but it is relevant. </a> And it shouldn't be surprising, but it is: Almost 2/3 of Americans don't know that they qualify for energy efficiency rebates. This is a failure of energy professionals everywhere. We have to do a better job of getting this information to homeowners so they can capitalize on special financing, tax incentives or just plain free money. On that note, our "Incentives" page allows you to access the information you need. If you qualify, one of the incentives will pay up to $5000 to improve the performance of your home. And you wouldn't have to wait until tax time to get the financial benefit: <i>it is deducted directly from the invoice we give our customers</i>. We can't find a better incentive offered by anyone across the country. It is real and it is waiting for you. <br />
<br />
Make your home more cozy this winter. Increase the value of your investment. Save Monergy! There is money available to help you accomplish these things! Get yours. Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-57146979169190100272011-11-10T12:50:00.004-06:002012-01-10T12:20:53.416-06:00Highly Attractive Resource<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPqQ6xtLSRkylDOuOUJAwbS6ywde2q10DEFuMSWegfTXBZ6V-jkGkM8VC5FyU6nSJsG18SbJ3RAYnRkAZVLdGIpvePVm6I0cK-kwBAVXgYxlDP4MwyoqDAqhm8ZBpb0S-fgPI-BGFTheg/s1600/energy+star+graphic+from+site.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPqQ6xtLSRkylDOuOUJAwbS6ywde2q10DEFuMSWegfTXBZ6V-jkGkM8VC5FyU6nSJsG18SbJ3RAYnRkAZVLdGIpvePVm6I0cK-kwBAVXgYxlDP4MwyoqDAqhm8ZBpb0S-fgPI-BGFTheg/s400/energy+star+graphic+from+site.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Talk to any energy professional and they will tell you that educating homeowners is Goal #1. Many people don't<i> truly</i> understand their houses and how they use energy and the ways they can perform better than they currently do. Part of this is because it can be intimidating--there's so much to know! And we live busy lives. Who has time to study refrigeration cycles? <br />
<br />
Well, it's important to remember that you don't have to be an expert to switch light bulbs, peek at the insulation in the attic, or use a caulking gun. Those things can save money. But for the person who wants to learn more ways to save, there are lots of resources that make learning easy. So, <a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_300755608">h</a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_300755608"></a><a href="https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=popuptool.atHome">ere's a terrific tool from the US Department of Energy</a>. Complete with crisp graphics and loaded with easy (and fun) to navigate information, this tool lets you look at every appliance and in every room of your house. It even lets you explore things like the house's thermal boundary, the a/c unit and furnace, door sweeps and leaf blowers. It's very attractively packaged and lets you click-through to other resources as much or as little as you want. <br />
<br />
Loaded with information and easy on the eyes, this is a great place to start when thinking about ways to save money at home.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-21768275001565488002011-10-18T13:55:00.001-05:002011-10-18T17:09:28.916-05:00Calculate The SavingsThere are many tools available for the homeowner who wants to save money at home. In fact, there are so many choices it can get overwhelming. <a href="http://www.cellulose.org/HomeOwners/CalculateSavings.php">Here's</a> a great tool that allows you to calculate the savings that be achieved through added insulation. First, you'll need to know how much insulation is currently in your attic--and how much you need to keep your house from bleeding energy. <br />
<br />
If you peek in your attic, you will (hopefully!) see some kind of insulation above your ceiling, in between the ceiling joists. (If your insulation covers your ceiling joists, you may still only have about half of the minimum recommended insulation for this region of the country.) Whatever the type of insulation, if you have 3"-4" of it then you are likely in the ballpark of R-11 or R-13. If you have enough to cover the ceiling joists (probably 6"-8") then it's likely R-21 to an R-28. While that may seem like enough, the minimum recommendation by the Department of Energy is R-38! And it is highly advisable to create an R-49 (or even an R-60) in your attic.<br />
<br />
So once you know what you have and what you need, <a href="http://www.cellulose.org/HomeOwners/CalculateSavings.php">use the online calculator</a> to put a dollar sign on the savings from adding insulation. What's nice about this particular page is that it allows you to enter specific energy costs as well as customize geography. It shows savings by year and even includes the amount of reduced greenhouse gases after adding insulation. It's a great place to start when trying to find ways to save Monergy. Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-22313526877188858052011-10-11T09:20:00.003-05:002011-10-11T09:52:34.423-05:00DIY Energy AuditWhile energy professionals like us can drill down deeper than the average homeowner when analyzing a home's energy usage and losses, it doesn't mean homeowners shouldn't conduct their own home energy assessments. In fact, we encourage everyone to take control of their 'monergy' and understand the basics of how their home performs. Here are a few of our favorite online tools for the DIY'er:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/energy_audits/index.cfm/mytopic=11170">EnergySavers.gov</a>. The best place to start because it tells you what to look for and why each component is important. Explains how to conduct your own assessment.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.energysavvy.com/estimate/">EnergySavvy.com</a>. This site has quickly established itself as a go-to resource for energy professionals and homeowners alike. The link takes you directly to the page that allows you to punch in the numbers for your house and create your own mini-energy audit. It generates a score for you at the end that offers a visual reference. Start by entering your zip code and you're done in three minutes.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.touchstoneenergy.com/efficiency/residentialenergyaudit/Pages/tserea/default.html">Touchstone Energy.</a> Touchstone operates a lot of the rural electric co-ops in the Prairie State, and this is their online tool. Very quick and it allows you to enter fuels costs. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=Home_Energy_Yardstick.showGetStarted">EnergyStar.gov. </a>If you are an Ameren customer, this is the online tool they recommend. (Note the graphic in the center of the screen that says, <i>"What's your score?"</i> This refers to The Home Energy Score, which is a tool and a term that is poised to break into the mainstream in the next year. This tool is based on the Home Energy Scoring System.) <br />
<br />
Not surprisingly, we recommend having your house inspected by an energy professional. But these tools allow you to learn more about your home and its performance and are a great place to start.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-87804117584079160482011-10-04T16:50:00.002-05:002011-10-06T20:44:04.092-05:00Green October: Energy Awareness MonthAs October is Energy Awareness Month, here are some easy ways to save energy and money in your home...and not just in October.<br />
<br />
<b>Replace your HVAC filters.</b> Dirty filters restrict
airflow and cause the system to run for longer stretches, using more electricity and/or gas. And the more it runs, the faster it wears out and has to be replaced, right? Make it a point to change the filter every 30-45 days.<br />
<br />
<b>Adjust your thermostat.</b> Running your heating system
at 68 – 70 degrees and the air conditioning at 78 degrees can save a
typical homeowner more than $300 a year in electric costs. Heating and cooling costs represent about half of a home's total energy usage, so just a small seasonal adjustment can pay off big--particularly in winter. <br />
<br />
<b>Lower the water heater setting.</b> Heating water accounts for approximately 12% percent of all energy consumed in your home. Move your electric hot water heater’s
setting from 140 degrees to 120 degrees and you can save up to $85 per
year.<br />
<br />
<b>Yes, try the curly bulbs.</b> Some people are still resistant to the CFL bulbs, and we understand that change isn't easy. But consider this: 90% of the energy created by a traditional (incandescent) bulb is heat and only 10% of it is light. That's horribly inefficient. CFL bulbs produce 25% heat and 75% light. If you're feeling really efficient, consider an LED bulb. The cost is significantly higher than either incandescent bulbs or CFLs, but they're rated to last 20 years or more. <br />
<br />
By making just these few free or inexpensive modifications, you can save several hundred dollars each year. And the more energy costs go up, the more money these simple adjustments will pay you back.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906605667580724511.post-38672292791223012232011-09-26T18:40:00.001-05:002011-09-27T19:31:40.109-05:00Energy Efficiency -- The World in 2030<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/QG3HNQiEaTM?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com